N gauge 3D signal box building

It has taken a bit of time since the last print, due to work, but following on from my first print I have now had much better success.. It turns out that the wall thickness was too thin, The wall thickness was 1mm, and now having made it 2mm it is now printing out well. At the same time I tweaked the support material to make the support material easier to remove..

The one issue I have found has been cleaning around the windows and  finally I need to work out why on the 3d model the windows all show correctly the individual panes of glass, but on the print some of the panes are missing, and in the slicing software it shows the panes being missing..

More work required to perfect this one!

But Thanks for those on Reprap forums for suggesting the thickening of the walls could be one of the problems.

Wood Filament part 3

So this is part three of the wood filament print!.. After the first house I set out to draw my own N gauge from a paper plan into 3d software and then print this out. However this time making it a hollow print, with the windows open. The idea being that lights can be fitted inside making it more realistic.

Again I used the wood filament, Just because this was the best print., I think I may try the white PLA though as well at some point.

Anyway here is the print on the bed, prior to clean up

Then after I removed it from the bed

Then Cleaned up.

One thing I have found that is a problem is printing small (2mm) squares, they end up being rounded, so the solution I have come across is to just use a knife to square everything off. Only a problem is seems for Chimneys!

Just a small update to those wondering, this is the same filament as used previously which is 

Printing models - Wood Filament 2

So I have also been looking at N -gauge models, as My Father in law has an N-gauge track and my son is also train mad.. So I got to thinking could I print out a good quality 3D model house for N- Gauge? 

I chose the wood filament for this, as previous prints showed that I could get a good print, with good surface finish that could then be sanded and finished as required.

Here are my results:

This was straight after the print had finished, I then managed to peel off the print from the print bed.. Interesting that in order to remove a print in wood filament from the print bed I have to heat the bed after printing has finished to 30 degrees, and this helps to release the print. The wood filament stick really well to the Masking tape... I might be tempted to try this print again just on Kapton!.

Here is the print again after cleaning it up.. To clean up I get a scalpel to it and then a bit of sand paper to finish.