Wood Filament part 3

So this is part three of the wood filament print!.. After the first house I set out to draw my own N gauge from a paper plan into 3d software and then print this out. However this time making it a hollow print, with the windows open. The idea being that lights can be fitted inside making it more realistic.

Again I used the wood filament, Just because this was the best print., I think I may try the white PLA though as well at some point.

Anyway here is the print on the bed, prior to clean up

Then after I removed it from the bed

Then Cleaned up.

One thing I have found that is a problem is printing small (2mm) squares, they end up being rounded, so the solution I have come across is to just use a knife to square everything off. Only a problem is seems for Chimneys!

Just a small update to those wondering, this is the same filament as used previously which is 

Printing models - Wood Filament 2

So I have also been looking at N -gauge models, as My Father in law has an N-gauge track and my son is also train mad.. So I got to thinking could I print out a good quality 3D model house for N- Gauge? 

I chose the wood filament for this, as previous prints showed that I could get a good print, with good surface finish that could then be sanded and finished as required.

Here are my results:

This was straight after the print had finished, I then managed to peel off the print from the print bed.. Interesting that in order to remove a print in wood filament from the print bed I have to heat the bed after printing has finished to 30 degrees, and this helps to release the print. The wood filament stick really well to the Masking tape... I might be tempted to try this print again just on Kapton!.

Here is the print again after cleaning it up.. To clean up I get a scalpel to it and then a bit of sand paper to finish.

Black pla second attempt

So after reading the post on the repeat forums the other week,  someone else has used the filamentum pla and suggested upping the speed..

So that's what I tried... I then tried printing a larger print.  This one was for a bracket for work... To machine the bracket would cost £5.60. It works out to be around 60p to print out... You can see the print half way through here..will try to get a pic of the finished item next week

Wood Filament

Its been a few busy weeks again, but one post that I have been meaning to do is to update you on how I have been getting on with the wood filament that I got for Christmas.

This was the filament that I got:

I have to say I have been really impressed with this filament, When printing it does smell of wood, and once printed it is easier to carve with a knife than normal PLA (It is after all PLA with wood fibre). The first print came out really bad, but then I just printed it with the same settings as for the White PLA I have, which was 195'C extrusion temp, no heated bed.

Its interesting stuff, It is very easy to sand afterwards (I have found that the white PLA wasn't great to sand or file). This really does work like wood in some respects.

So the first print was a simple box.

Further spare parts

So its been a couple of weeks since I last posted, and its been quite a busy couple of weeks, However I have been busy printing parts ready to do some upgrades on the printer.

First off was y axis belt clamps, ready for when I upgrade the print bed from the Ply bed currently on the printer to a metal bed to improve rigidity.

The next part that I have printed out is the X arm end stop, this upgrade will allow me to provide some adjustment to the tension of the x axis belt, which will be good considering whilst trying to print this out first time around the belt slackened right off..

Here you can see the individual parts printed out. I had to clean up the thread abit in order to get it to screw into the body.

Here is the parts screwed together ready for fitting.

Lower z axis print done

At last third attempt and the lower z axis has printed out with out lifting on the corners or the exuder getting caught. My solution was to rotate the part in the slic3r software and increase the layer thickness from 0.1 to 0.3.

Problem solved, which is good as the part fitted is about to split in two.

I will try to improve the print quality later once I have replaced the failing part.

backwash eliminator

The other day I managed to print out a Backwash eliminator, surprised at how well it works...

Heres the link to the file on thingiverse

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:185153

Didn't have any bolts long enough, so instead of bolting it on, I have just put some dabs of glue in each corner and stuck it on!