Long time no update

Things have been pretty busy these last few months, However in the coming posts I will followup on the build of my Anycubic Linear Delta plus 3D printer, as well as an overview on the outcome of my Landrover D90 pickup 1/10th scale 3D printed body shell...

Currently working on Landrover series 101 shell design, as well as a new case design for Raspberry pi Z

Keep a look out.

Raise3d N1 Review

So we have had access to a Raise3D N1 printer for the last year, so I figured now would be a good time to provide a review of this printer.

Basically a more rugged version of the Ultimaker, Designed to be run continuously (and it can), I have been using this at work to print out 2000 brackets for a project, as well as now bodies for sensors. This printer has almost run non-stop 24/7 for 300 days (not quite non-stop for the year yet) and the following bits have had to be replaced:-

Warranty items:

Actually only one item - this was the LCD module, which completely failed (the start of this was a few occurrences of crashing and then a memory dump, which eventually led to a complete crash - Something that the UK distributor had never seen, and an issue Raise had yet to have with the N1 (After issues of waiting 10 days for the first screen, then receiving this to find that Raise had sent from China a new screen for the N2, therefore had to wait a further 10 days for another screen,) everything was back up and working again easily.

Items that wear out:

Main items to wear out have been the thermo couples, and heating elements, overall everything is easy to maintain and replace, just remember to make sure everything is tight and it will continue to be accurate.

The printer has a levelling system that is manual, but walks you through it, so you do not have to set anything in software, just merely use a feeler gauge to adjust the screws on the build plate. One thing that is noticable is that the build plate to be level is at quite an angle (looks like its drooping abit), however can get really level.

Oh its also dual extruder, but have yet to use the second extruder.

Lots of exciting new stuff in the pipelines

Sorry for not posting for a while, lots of new stuff in the pipelines at the moment, which is keeping me busy.

Delta 3d Printer being one of the items on my list.
Printing out a 1/10th scale Landrover D90 bodyshell.

and finally

Starting to compile a pantone/RAL list of filament colors - more on that soon

UP Box+... Any Better or still Biggest waste of money (and Time) ever spent

So following on from my first UP Box post, I had left a review on the Tiertime forums, roll on a couple of weeks, Tiertime emailed me after I had posted my annoyance on their forums, to offer me the latest version of the Up Box, the UP Box+ which they promised has fixed all the issues I had seen. 

So after much thinking I gladly accepted this. This was back in March time and so this is an update for the UP Box+

So eventually I received the new printer, unboxed it, and started it printing. Two prints in, the printer stops working, little did I know that the printer now needs to be registered with UPBOX via the internet and the upbox software, meaning you need to sign into the software in order to register the UP Box.

Once we were back up and running, I decided to run an auto level, which ran ok after the third attempt (the biggest issue was the Height detect, which sometime didn't detect correctly - it requires a really clean nozzle and also appears to be the newest updated feature, before there was a small lever that the nozzle pushed down to detect the height I am guessing that this was removed as a weakness - although never had an issue with that one).. Anyway This now has failed completely after a few months use (this then means that you have to manually perform bed levelling).

Also now with the UPBox+ you receive the flex build platform which doesn't work all that great..

On the plus side, the issues that plagued the first UP Box appear to have been fixed, the cable to the print head is now secured with an injection moulded clamp as opposed to a 3D printed part, and the print head is now secured by a screw to the drive mount.

Finally it appears that the new UPBox+ is finicky with what manufacturer of filament it will print with, currently I can only use RigidInk to reliably print anything.

To summarise:-
Would I now recommend the UP Box to anyone else? NO... It still not a great printer.
Whilst the weak parts of the previous UP Box appear to have been fixed, that is the print head cable strain relief - which was the biggest problem for print failures.

New problems that are now seen:-

1. Doesn't correctly level all the time (Takes a few attempts to level correctly) - Even the technical support guy who delivered the printer said it takes a couple of attempts, and that he normally ends up manually levelling. After a month or two, the auto height detect no longer works (the operation of this has changed), therefore you can no longer level the print bed automatically, and are left to manually level.
2. Occasionally you get a motion error control notification on the software at the end of a print. This means you have to switch the printer off and on again to clear the error.
3. Now appears to be very fickle with filaments, really doesn't like using many different filaments and the only one that is 100% reliable is Rigid.Ink (But then this is really good stuff), but I would have expected formfurtura to work fine, but end up finding that the printer will start air printing part way through!

Exciting news - 3D printing business now fully underway!

Hi All,

Having spent the last year building up a 3D printing business (This being the reason for the long time since the last post), I am pleased to announce that Regulus 3D is officially operating from September for 3D printing your models, being run and operated by my Wife, However I am still the technical authority, and will be technical support for the printers.

We are starting out with the CEL Robox, but will be adding to this in October, so get sending us your print requests, we are also on 3DHubs

https://www.3dhubs.com/manage/Regulus3D#/hub/home

We have already been developing a standard product range that we will be printing, including Raspberry pi Cases, and Radio controlled 1/10th scale car parts - Watch this space for pictures of some of our recent prints

UP Box... Biggest waste of money (and Time) ever spent

Can I say that the original UP box has been the biggest waste of money ever - We have been using this for just under a year (purchased from CPC in Feb 16, even though we find out from the UK distributor that the printer (from the serial number) is now out of warranty from the manufacturer! - 1st bad point).

So in this time we have had several failures,

1) It has had a replacement CPU board,
2) 6 x print head FPC cables (In fact this is a serious design flaw of the UP Box, and requires regular maintenance),
3) The brackets that hold the print head board on need regular replacement...

4) We are on our second print head (£250 for a new print head and extruder), when all that was needed was a new extruder wheel on the stepper motor

5) Where we used to be able to print a whole platform, now restricted to just the middle area of the platform, otherwise the printer stops printing mid way through - from not extruding, to prints lifting.

6) Latest error after replacing the FPC boards (as we suspected the connector on the board had now worn out), the up box levelling system has broke (this happened, as the levelling system came switched on on its own at the start of the print and them proceeded to crash into the print bed, destroying the microswitch in the process) - Levelling system seems to stay off until the print head is about to start printing, and then randomly starts to move down and up!!!

7) Front door doesn't close properly (appears to be warped, and the hinges need to be twisted inorder to close correctly)

So conveniently now we have a printer that appears to be out of warranty from the manufacturer - and they don't recognize that it was brought new a few months after it was manufactured! and is now developing major issues just outside the warranty!

Would I buy an Up again? - given the issues here, No... And actually I have recently purchased for myself a Cel-Robox, plus a Raise3d printer for the office as a second machine. Note the Raise3D N1 has the same build area as the Up Box, is dual extruder, build quality is twice (if not three times as good) as the UP box, and is only £500 more that the UP..What this says to me is that the Up Box is overpriced for what it is.

Oh did I say I now need to get the thing working again!! = more money

Issues with Filament suppliers

This post talks about the issue with buying poor quality filament!

So with the UP box I have been buying Filament from CPC that is supposed to be approved for the UP printer (has UP on the box). Now this is not to be confused with the filament labelled from Tiertime.

Now I think that if you are supplying plastic filament for 3D printers, you really need to know and understand the issues of supplying quality filament, and also supplying filament that has been stored correctly! I have had maybe 6x reels of yellow filament from CPC, then I went to order some more filament and could only get green - no probs I can handle using Green.

However upon receipt of 6 reels, I had to return two as they had been pierced (letting in oxygen). Now who know how long those reels had been pierced, but it was obvious when opening the box that this had happened as the vacuum seal on the reels had been compromised.

This is what was presented to me when I first opened up two of the reels.

I returned them, and then asked for replacements. 5 days later I had my replacements turn up - only to find that in fact CPC had put the reels I had returned back into stock and then picked that stock back out in order to send back to me. So I received the same reels of filament that I had sent back.

This is what un-opened reels of filament should look like:-

A good vacuum seal - See CPC when it comes to goods return inspection - look this is sealed filament not a loose bag!.

I have been using the replacement filament, and have to say that the quality isn't as good as the filament I have personally used, which is from Rigid Ink. The filament supposedly designed for the UP is not as accurate, and has issues in the UP printer, in as much doesn't sometimes extrude and clogs the extruder up. However the Rigid Ink lives up to its promise to which praises itself on the quality, prints all the time without problems.

The moral of this is that if you want to buy filament for your printer but from a descent supplier that knows what they are doing with filament and knows how it should be treated - CPC is NOT one of them!

Up! Box Printer Issues!

Hello. Sorry its being a few long months since the last post, mainly a mix of working away from home, then Holiday, then more work (Trying to get the printer to work at the same time).

And so to the issues with the printer not work - It has now being back for repair 2 x times, firstly there was a replacement hot end board, then next a replacement CPU! (On the plus side, that means new firmware that is capable of handling the new version of PC software for the UP products)

Now following up with my review of the UP box, I would like to say it is not designed for someone that isnt technical. You will need to replace the 3D printed parts that are in the unit. I have found so far that I have had to replace the mount for the hot end board, and then at the same time replace the cable restraint for the hot end - luckily these are 3D printed files supplied with the software installation.

So the first photos below show the cable in the FPC connector on the hot end board, and the 3D printed mount

 

 

The next photos show the cover that provides the strain relief for the FPC cable

Unfortunately if you don't have these already printed out and they wear out, you have to glue the screws back in to give you a chance of printing out the spare part.

Finally the other issue that I have found is the cable that connects the main board to the hotend, this cable is a flat ribbon cable that connects to an FPC connector (Not the best connector for something that has constant movement)

 - I believe that this is the biggest design flaw. Luckily being technically minded I was able to spot that the issue I was seeing where the print was stopping a while through, due to the head being too cool, was actually due to the cable not making a good connection in the connector.

Luckily the Guys at Denford - who are the UK distributor for Tiertime UP, realized I was technically minded and therefore When I asked them to send me a spare cable, they did...Otherwise a 2 days fix could've turned into a two week fix! 

So now I am back up and printing, with a new cable and newly printed out parts.

Rigid Ink Nylon 12 with the UP! Box Printer Review

It has been a while now since my last post, I have been meaning to get a write up done on the RigidInk Nylon filament done for some time.

Following on from My PMMA filament review med UP! Box Printer, I was interested at se how the printer handled Nylon filament. Rigid Ink do a nylon 12 filament som enligt specification prints in the same region as ABS (260) nemlig setup on the UP! Box.

Now I have ulterior motives for trying out Nylon, in as much as I would like to print out some parts to make a Drone, and I have been reading up that Nylon might just be the material-to-use.

As you can see even on the basic abs settings of the UP Box printer, the Nylon filament prints really well. In fact yet again the Filament from Rigid Ink works really well, with consistent results.

Only issue I have seen with some other prints is that because the filament is being extruded at a higher temperature than recommended, there is quite a bit of oozing afterwards, which has been a problem with intricate parts. I am sure that if the UP software allowed for adjusting of temperature then this would be no problem.

Rigid Ink PMMA and the UP! Box Printer

Well after trying the Rigid Ink ABS, I figured I would give their PMMA filament a try as it extrudes at around the same temperature as ABS specified for the UP! Box Printer (Note that the UP! Box has a fixed pre-programmed setting for ABS, Therefore you have to get the right spec material to match with the fixed temperature setting), Therefore suitable for use with the UP! Box printer.

PMMA is a Plexi Glass (Acrylic)  filament.

So printing out the Marvin robot gives me the following results based on 100 micon layer resolution

Looking at the printout, this is much more clearly defined than the ABS Printout, the Keyring loop comes out nice and clean

With the next print, a cog, just to see how accurate we can go.

Finally a nut and bolt, the thread here is almost perfect, this is exactly how it came off the printer.

All Prints come out really clean and defined, I think the natural translucent material would make a good filament for printing out some designs I have for Orchid pots, as this will allow light to the roots, as well as providing a decorative pot.

Yet again I am amazed at the quality of the filament from Rigid Ink, Absolutely top quality, You can find their filament either directly from Rigid Ink

https://rigid.ink/products/pmma-1-75-mm-0-03-mm-tolerance

or you can even buy from Amazon

https://www.amazon.co.uk/rigid-ink-Filament-Printers-Tolerance-Translucent/dp/B01C8P46FY/ref=sr_1_1_det?ie=UTF8&qid=1462576152&sr=8-1#productPromotions

Rigid Ink and the UP! Box 3D printer

So Sometime ago I got a sample of Rigid Inks ABS Filament - Unfortunately you don't get to choose the colour, but at least you get to try out a different supplier.

Here are the results of printing on the UP! Box, Printing our a marvin robot keyring.

Here is the print smoothed with Acetone to see how the filament smooths out.

Looks pretty good doesn't it.. On the white tiertime filament that comes with the UP! Box printer, it struggled with the key ring loop at the top of the robot, however with the RigidInk filament not a single problem.. It really is amazing as I was expecting the tiertime filament to out perform the Rigid Ink filament considering that the Rigid Ink filament was extruded at the upper end of its temperature range. Also I have been finding the green ABS filament from UP! manufacturer struggles to get going in as much if you put in a reel after the printer has rested, the filament requires an extra bit of pushing to get it to start extruding properly. - Now this is filament that is meant to be compatible with the UP printer (This of course could just be the green filament being the problem, and that any other colour would be fine)..

From my initial Test I am definitely sold on the Rigid Ink Filament, it is a shame that the colours are limited, for instance would be great to have a glow in the dark filament.

I am definetely going to try and get some of their other filament to test - Looks like I should be able to print PMMA and Nylon12 with the standard UP! Box setup - so watch this space!

Oh the final plus of Rigid Ink Filament is the cost - For the filament for UP! Box I have been paying £27 for a 500g reel, Rigid Ink filament is the same price but for double - yes double 1kg reel! Bargain

Up! Box 3D printer - Part 3 - After a Month of use

So I thought I would write up a short review of the UP Box having used it now for over a month.

It has been an interesting month of use, it produces consistently good prints if your careful, and follow good housekeeping of the unit. In this I mean the perforated bed! This seems to me to be one of the Ups biggest strengths and yet one of its weaknesses.

The perforated bed is a great design idea, and simple in use. The idea being it helps the ABS to stick down to the bed by allowing the ABS to ooze into the perforations (The printer is setup to level and auto height adjust to the right height to allow the correct amount to ooze into the perforations whilst achieving a good 1st layer - Get the height wrong and you either get ABS jams in the extruder, or the print doesn't stick). This works great to start off with, but after a while the perforations get clogged up and then the extruder stops extruding and skips on the gear (caused by back pressure) ( and then causing the extruder gear wheel to clog with bits of ABS meaning a complete tear down and clean of the extruder). Looking on the forums everyone suggests wiping over with Acetone prior to printing. Whilst this works to start off with, you can end up wiping endlessly to get it to start working properly (I found a simple wipe after a while did not solve the Extruder skipping).

I have tried a couple of other ideas.

1) Submerse the perforated bed into a vat of Acetone - This is the brute force and ignorance method which works really well, although you do need a well ventilated area and that you agitate the acetone every so often in order to get it to flow through the perforations... I did this with the bed for around 4 hours and seems to clean them out really well.

2) Sit at a desk with a PCB spike (Used for cleaning through holes in PCBs out ready for soldering), or similar stiff spike - maybe one for starting a hole in wood. Push the spike into each hole with ABS in, and this will push the ABS out the back. Then use the pair of wire cutters to remove the neat little ABS plug out. Yes very time consuming, but something good to do whilst you are waiting for a piece of software to load up/ Waiting for your document to load up/ Or simple had enough of the office politics and want to wind down!


The other weakness I feel is the extruder - its a simple gear on a stepper motor which if you get any jams leaves you having to dismantle the extruder (Instructions are given to do this, so they expect you to have to do it often)

and in short would I purchase one for myself... Hmmm hard to say at the moment

Up! Box Printer - Part 2 - First Print

It has taken a while, as it has been a bust period of printing parts for work. But I thought I should publish this post as a followup now.

Having setup the printer, I didn't get round to printing until after the weekend. So when I got back into work on the Monday, the printer was fired up - Now each time its switched on you have to initialize it via the initialize function in the software. One thing I was a little disappointed with is that unlike the Ultimaker 2 which can be used standalone and can select and read the files at the printer without a PC connection, the UP! Box appears to be designed to be connected up to a PC!.

Anyway once initialized has been completed, you load the part and locate it on the bed in software. The Software did seem a little clunky. To move the part you first must select the move icon and then in the drop down menu next to this select how much +/- you wan to move by and then press the x, y, or z button. To rotate you select the rotate button and then do the same. Not as nice as using arrow keys, or the mouse.. and takes some getting used to.

Here is the first print being printed, it is the bracket. When printing the UP BOX logo lights up to tell you the progress of the print, it also lights up different colors depending on whether there is an error or at what stage of printing, i.e. heating up for instance. - A nice little feature that save looking at the computer screen. If you press the power button once on the printer then inside the printer is lit up so that you can see the print.

Once removed from the printer the bracket can be seen, and its very good quality.

The Quality is definitely on a different order of magnitude to that of my printer, the same print but on my printer can be see here.

There are different speeds of settings to print to, Fine, Normal, Fast or Turbo. I have yet to see any difference in quality and speed between Normal (1.5hr), Fast (1.25hr) and Turbo (just over an hour) - I was expecting bigger differences.. I have set it up to do a reasonable (20% fill) lattice.

You can actually see the lattice structure below.

UP! Box 3D printer - Part 1

The other week I was able to persuade my employer to purchase a 3D printer for the office. Basically we have a bracket that we have designed for a new product, and getting this machined for a quantity of 1500 was going to cost £5.60 each. 3D printing the part comes out at 60p including the material and energy costs. 

An investment of £1,500 for the printer plus printing out the parts I worked out would cost £3k less than machining! - Hence they accepted my proposal to purchase a 3D printer.

Now onto the choice. I had got the choice down to either the UP! box or the Ultimaker 2. What I wanted was the flexibility and the ease to get up and running. It was a hard choice (I spent nearly two weeks debating over this). But basically since I am the only one in the office with a clue about to get a 3D printer working in the event of something going wrong, I wanted a printer that would work out of the box. So the UP! Box it was.

You can purchase the UP! Box from a number of suppliers, We got ours from CPC (Which are part of the Farnell group).

Here is a link to the printer

http://up3dprinters.co.uk/up-box-features/

I was impressed on reading the specs that you could be up-packed and printing within 15mins!

Upon receipt of the printer I was really impressed with how well it was packed. It really helps to have a second pair of hands to remove it from the box.

Power supply, and tools included.. You will need the scraper!

USB Cable, Spare nozzle, USB stick, allen keys and tool to remove the nozzle

Great Quick start instructions

Software on CD (Same as supplied on the USB memory stick) and print beds

Rear view

Side view with the spool cover

Spool cover removed

Top view

Front View

So you get 4 x printing platforms, 3 perforated which are supposed to be for ABS, and I Guess the plain smooth plate is for PLA. All that is required is to clip off the cable ties that are marked with the yellow tag, load the software and then switch the unit on, perform an initialization and auto level mode and its then ready to print.

To insert the filament into the extruder you first load the reel into the right hand side (Accepts 500g sized reels - 750g at a real push). The filament is fed through the tube and then placed into the extruder. In software you go into the maintenance menu and select extrude. The hot end heats up to temperature for the chosen filament, and then beeps to say its at temperature. Once at temperature you can hear (and feel the filament being pulled into the extruder), this then extrudes a set amount of filament out of the nozzle and then stops - presumably preset up such that if you change filament colour that it extrudes enough filament to remove fully the old color in there!

Now I am ready to print. So far this has been a smooth setup - Really this could be done by anyone without engineering knowledge of 3D printers - I did notice that you can print out spare parts of the printer (as there are the files for the spare parts on the supplied Memory card, and also some of the parts on the printer are obviously 3D printed).

(The software reads in an STL among other file formats and then outputs its own Machine code format - as opposed to GCode) 

So in All - Can you be setup and printing in 15mins? ....... Yes if you don't have to take other calls, whilst setting this up!

N gauge 3D signal box building

It has taken a bit of time since the last print, due to work, but following on from my first print I have now had much better success.. It turns out that the wall thickness was too thin, The wall thickness was 1mm, and now having made it 2mm it is now printing out well. At the same time I tweaked the support material to make the support material easier to remove..

The one issue I have found has been cleaning around the windows and  finally I need to work out why on the 3d model the windows all show correctly the individual panes of glass, but on the print some of the panes are missing, and in the slicing software it shows the panes being missing..

More work required to perfect this one!

But Thanks for those on Reprap forums for suggesting the thickening of the walls could be one of the problems.

N Gauge New print

Its been a busy couple of weeks, and haven't had a chance to do any prints. It also took me the last couple of weeks to get the next design done.

So here is what the design looks like at the time of slicing

As you can see this should be a signal box for a model railway! So next was to print it out. You can see the result of the print below

As you can see from this picture the print ended up being slanted towards the top part of the walls (the roof was fine), This was the second attempt at the part, as the first did the same. The first time I thought this was down to skipping, but I kept an eye on this on the second time and could not hear the printer skip. The only difference between this part and the previous house was the wall thickness!.

You can see the wall thickness is thin, it has been set to 1mm, previously wall thickness was 2.5mm for the other building. Therefore I am going to repeat the print but with an increased wall thickness of 2mm (Here I was hoping to save on filament!

Wood Filament part 3

So this is part three of the wood filament print!.. After the first house I set out to draw my own N gauge from a paper plan into 3d software and then print this out. However this time making it a hollow print, with the windows open. The idea being that lights can be fitted inside making it more realistic.

Again I used the wood filament, Just because this was the best print., I think I may try the white PLA though as well at some point.

Anyway here is the print on the bed, prior to clean up

Then after I removed it from the bed

Then Cleaned up.

One thing I have found that is a problem is printing small (2mm) squares, they end up being rounded, so the solution I have come across is to just use a knife to square everything off. Only a problem is seems for Chimneys!

Just a small update to those wondering, this is the same filament as used previously which is 

Printing models - Wood Filament 2

So I have also been looking at N -gauge models, as My Father in law has an N-gauge track and my son is also train mad.. So I got to thinking could I print out a good quality 3D model house for N- Gauge? 

I chose the wood filament for this, as previous prints showed that I could get a good print, with good surface finish that could then be sanded and finished as required.

Here are my results:

This was straight after the print had finished, I then managed to peel off the print from the print bed.. Interesting that in order to remove a print in wood filament from the print bed I have to heat the bed after printing has finished to 30 degrees, and this helps to release the print. The wood filament stick really well to the Masking tape... I might be tempted to try this print again just on Kapton!.

Here is the print again after cleaning it up.. To clean up I get a scalpel to it and then a bit of sand paper to finish.

Black pla second attempt

So after reading the post on the repeat forums the other week,  someone else has used the filamentum pla and suggested upping the speed..

So that's what I tried... I then tried printing a larger print.  This one was for a bracket for work... To machine the bracket would cost £5.60. It works out to be around 60p to print out... You can see the print half way through here..will try to get a pic of the finished item next week

Wood Filament

Its been a few busy weeks again, but one post that I have been meaning to do is to update you on how I have been getting on with the wood filament that I got for Christmas.

This was the filament that I got:

I have to say I have been really impressed with this filament, When printing it does smell of wood, and once printed it is easier to carve with a knife than normal PLA (It is after all PLA with wood fibre). The first print came out really bad, but then I just printed it with the same settings as for the White PLA I have, which was 195'C extrusion temp, no heated bed.

Its interesting stuff, It is very easy to sand afterwards (I have found that the white PLA wasn't great to sand or file). This really does work like wood in some respects.

So the first print was a simple box.